From building foundations and commercial pools to high-traffic balconies, pedestrian systems, and parking garages, designers and specifiers face the challenge of balancing scheduling demands, performance, and aesthetics all at once. A waterproofing system that meets all three isn’t just preferred—it’s essential. Tecnocoat polyurea membranes offer monolithic, rapid-curing protection that meets rigorous design requirements without slowing your project down.

Fast Cure That Keeps Projects on Track

Time is often the silent budget-breaker on construction sites. When waterproofing takes days to cure, that downtime ripples through schedules, threatens seasonal timelines, and creates bottlenecks for following trades. Tecnocoat changes the game. Within seconds, the membrane sets and is walkable within minutes, keeping critical paths on course.

A general contractor shared: “We were able to drive a skid steer across the membrane only hours after application with no visible damage.” Another noted that a three-person crew could cover areas in less time than traditional systems, which require larger teams. It’s the kind of performance that earns trust from both designers and project managers.

Built for Design Versatility and Performance

Specifiers know that buildings require more than speed. They demand precision and protection over time. Tecnocoat adapts to diverse substrates and is compatible with concrete, steel, wood, foam, geotextiles, and masonry surfaces. It can be applied across horizontal, vertical, and curved areas, simplifying detailing and design needs. 

The Tecnocoat portfolio includes:

• Spray-applied membranes: (P-2049, H-2049) Ideal for quick coverage and seamless application
• Hand-applied versions: (CP-2049) Useful for smaller projects, retrofit zones, and pedestrian traffic
• Topcoat options: Tailored for UV stability, chemical resistance, or vehicular traffic, depending on project needs

Waterproofing Without Weak Spots

Beyond speed, performance is about resiliency. Tecnocoat forms a continuous, fully bonded membrane that eliminates seams and weak points. Its high elongation allows for structural movement such as thermal shifts or subtle deflections without cracking.

Field experience underscores its durability, even under vehicle traffic and aggressive conditions. The membrane withstands UV exposure, oils, solvents, chlorides, and acidic environments, ensuring aesthetics and performance endure. Beneath the surface, it shields building elements from corrosion and freeze-thaw damage, helping prolong service life. All of this is backed by the Polyglass Seal the Envelope™ Warranty.

The Tecnocoat Advantage

For building envelope professionals, the true measure of a waterproofing system is how well it supports the project’s long-term goals. Tecnocoat combines speed, adaptability, and proven performance to protect the integrity of your design, keep projects on schedule, and reduce risk across the board.

Key advantages include:

• Rapid curing: Walkable in minutes, helping critical paths stay on track and minimizing downtime
• Broad compatibility: Bonds to concrete, steel, wood, foam, geotextiles, and more, simplifying detailing and design needs across complex projects
• Seamless resilience: Flexible and durable, able to withstand stress, exposure, and heavy use without compromising protection
• Warranty-backed security: Confidence that extends beyond installation

Tecnocoat isn’t just a waterproofing product; it’s a high-performance system that helps building envelope professionals deliver durable, design-forward solutions without compromising timelines. With unmatched speed, proven durability, and flexible build options, letting you move fast and build to last—no trade-offs required.

Is Your Project Ready for Tecnocoat?

Polyglass offers a robust portfolio of liquid-applied waterproofing and traffic coating systems. Explore the full range of Tecnocoat products including system resources and specifications, or get in touch with us to discuss solutions tailored to your project needs.

 

 

 

 

A lot of the problems you see with a low-sloped roof (no roof is truly flat) that was installed years ago begin during the design or construction phase itself. Sometimes the drains are installed in the wrong location, not enough slope is built into the structure, or the poor-quality insulation flattens out over time.

All of these issues are entirely avoidable with proper planning done ahead of time. However, when the focus is on building a roof that meets the relevant codes, rather than one that will last for decades, problems are sure to arise. Most codes don’t even require slope if the roof can technically drain. When your drainage systems rely heavily on gravity or perfectly clean scuppers, ponding is bound to happen.

What is Ponding Water on a Flat Roof?

The word “ponding” refers to when water (usually from rain) pools up on the roof and stays there even 48-72 hours. The puddles don’t drain off because something is blocking the drainage path.

The longer this water stands instead of flowing off, the more damaging it becomes to the roofing material quality. It reacts with the roof membrane and wears out the asphalt (and other materials) faster. Asphalt (in BUR and Modified Bitumen roofing), bitumen coatings, insulation boards, plywood, fiberboards, sealants, and flashing compounds all need dry-out cycles. If the roof stays wet for long periods of time, these components lose their chemical adhesion and structural integrity.

That’s not all. Water absorbs the infrared radiation from the sun. So, the waterlogged areas remain hotter for several hours even after the sun goes down. The prolonged exposure to heat further accelerates the wear and tear of asphalt and any surface coatings.

Also, if the water is not removed in time, it collects dirt, leaves, twigs, bird nests, shingle granules, weed seeds, grime, and other small debris that bond with the roof surface. This is one of the most common culprits behind clogged drains, too, which makes the ponding worse. If the surface of the roof is slippery, the debris may have allowed algae or mold to thrive on there.

Facing so much deterioration on different levels, the lifespan of the roof is greatly reduced.

If the ponding gets deep enough, it adds hundreds or thousands of pounds of weight (depending on the size of the roof) to strain the structure. The roof might not collapse, but you will notice a lot of new roof leaks or fasteners coming loose.

What Causes Ponding on Flat Roofs?

The roof doesn’t have adequate slope

Despite the name, flat roofs are not level. They must have at least a minimum pitch of ¼ inch per foot to allow rainwater to drain quickly. Since the roof deck itself is flat, that slope is usually created using tapered insulation boards, which are angled to guide water toward drains or scuppers. These boards (e.g., polyiso) are cut at an angle to guide water toward drains, scuppers, and rain gutters.

But to reduce costs or installation time, some contractors install only flat insulation boards without adding taper. This creates areas on the roof where water has no clear path to evacuate. Even when angled boards are used, if they’re not properly designed to align with the drain layout, they will send runoff in the wrong direction.

In cases like these, where reworking the entire slope system is not feasible, you can use PolySlope. It’s a durable skim mortar specially made for creating a positive slope on ponding zones. PolySlope is fiber-reinforced for incredible strength, water-repellent, and designed for easy trowel finishing. It can be mixed onsite with water and applied to build smooth transitions toward drains/scuppers without tearing into the structure.

There are not enough drainage points

On a roof, drains must be spaced based on the roof area, expected rainfall intensity, and drain capacity (in GPM). For example, a single 4-inch drain might handle around 180-200 gallons per minute, but only if the slope actively directs water to it and it’s not clogged.

If a large roof only has two drains in opposite corners, rain that falls in the center or near the far edge will have no easy path to escape. There has to be a continuous pitch leading that way. Each internal drain, scupper, or gutter can only handle a certain volume of water. If you don’t have enough of them spread out across the surface, water will pond in areas that are too far from the nearest exit point.

The roof has too much deflection

When a roof is not built with enough support, or it has aged and started to settle, water will find those dips/depressions and stay there. Deflection refers to the downward bending or sagging of the roof structure under the weight of the roofing system itself, HVAC units, foot traffic, or snow, rain, or ponded water. If these loads get too heavy for the roof, parts of the deck start to bend down between joists, beams, or supports.

On a sagging roof deck, water naturally flows into the low points. If the slope is minimal to begin with (as it is on flat roofs), even a small deck deflection can be enough to trap water.

Crickets are missing

If your flat roof has big mechanical units or skylights and no crickets behind them, ponding is inevitable. We are not talking about the insects, but the triangular-shaped sloped backing that’s installed on flat roofs to divert the water toward drains instead of letting it get stuck behind the HVAC units, skylights, chimneys, pipe clusters, wall transitions, and roof access hatches. Every large curb needs a cricket to make sure the rainwater doesn’t get trapped behind it.

How To Prevent Standing Water

First things first, make sure there is positive sloping towards the drains. The industry standard is at least 1/4 inch per foot, though some contractors go with 1/8 inch in certain cases. But for areas that get heavy rainstorms or snow melt, 1/8” is not enough. Use rigid insulation boards that are pre-cut at an angle to create a slant under the membrane.

Once you have taken care of this basic design aspect, only then move on to the next steps:

Drainage design

If you want to prevent ponding on the roof, you have to start with the positive drainage planning before laying anything down. You know water will always go somewhere, so your job is to control that path.

Consider building internal drains with scuppers or overflow systems into the roof and connecting them with the plumbing. Place them at the lowest points of the roof (valleys created by the slope). You can also lower the insulation or deck level slightly at drain locations to create a bowl shape (tapered drain sumps) that funnels water directly into the drain. To prevent flooding during extreme rain, install backup/overflow drains higher up than the main drain. If the primary drain gets clogged, water can still escape.

Rooftop equipment placement

A lot of ponding issues happen because someone put a large HVAC/solar unit, skylight, or parapet wall in the wrong spot, or didn’t account for what it would do to drainage. Water gets trapped behind or around these structures. To prevent this, install crickets/saddles behind them, and use raised curbs and flashing to keep water away from seams. Leave plenty of clearance around equipment so water can move freely, avoiding placing units in areas that are naturally lower than the surrounding roof.

Membrane installation

Even if the slope and drainage are perfect, if your roof membrane system fails, water is going to find its way underneath. And the #1 place membranes fail is at the seams. Seams are where two rolls of membrane meet. Unless they are bonded tightly and water-resistant, water runoff will sneak in, causing blisters, delamination, leaks, and rot.

The membrane must be fully adhered across the entire surface (not only spot-bonded or tacked down at the seams). Any air gaps or loose layups may result in sagging, bridging, or membrane flutter when water starts to pool. Use a two-part adhesive (low-rise foam or bonding adhesive), rolled or sprayed evenly across the deck.

Polyglass offers a wide range of modified bitumen roofing membranes, including both APP and SBS systems, to match different installation methods and climate demands. Many of these are built with ADESO® self-adhered technology to help ensure an even bond with 100% coverage and no trapped air pockets; you will never have to worry about any sagging or separation down the line.

If the building is in a wildfire-prone area, Polyglass’ Elastoflex® SA V FR, Polyflex® SA P FR, and Polyfresko® G SA FR membranes are worth looking into. These products are CAL FIRE-approved, featuring the Burn Shield® Technology, and listed for use in WUI (Wildland-Urban Interface) zones.

If the roof has multiple elevation changes or transitions (e.g., over tapered insulation), take extra care to embed the membrane snugly over those contours so it doesn’t lift later.

Roof coatings

In areas where minor ponding is unavoidable (e.g., around rooftop units or shallow dips), roof coatings can be a smart way to protect your system.

These are fluid-applied products that go over the membrane either as a restoration system to extend the life of an older roof or a reinforcement for spots with minor ponding that can’t be re-sloped easily. Coatings are especially helpful on older roofs when you are not ready to replace them but still want to reinforce the weak spots and buy more time.

Although coatings do not eliminate ponding, some products can help protect the roof membrane in shallow depressions, areas behind rooftop units, or low points that are vulnerable to standing water. But they only work if the roof is otherwise stable and if the product is rated for use in ponding conditions.

Polyglass offers silicone-based and elastomeric coatings — including PolyBrite® 90 and 95 — that are formulated to provide protection against stagnant water. If you are looking for the best roof coating for ponding water, look no further. PolyBrite® silicone coatings are resistant to extreme weathering and come with a 50-year limited warranty!

To make these coatings last even longer, use Polyclean™ to strip away dirt, grease, and algae before application. A hybrid sealant like PolyFlash® MPS should be applied for flashing edges and penetrations; it bonds extremely fast, even in damp areas, and stays watertight in ponding zones.

That said, coatings only work if the rest of the roof is in decent shape. And not every product can handle standing water. You’ll want a system that’s rated for ponding conditions and built to last.

Preventive maintenance

If ponding tends to collect around the area where a pipe curb or solar rack sits too low, consider rebuilding that curb entirely. The PolyFlash® Flexible Curb Kit makes it easy to create a customized watertight barrier that prevents moisture from sneaking into the irregular penetrations.

Whenever you notice any amount of water standing on the roof after a storm, and it doesn’t evaporate or drain within two days, call in a professional roof inspection and repair crew. The longer water sits, the more time it has to find a way in. Also, you could lose your roofing warranty if you ignore it. Most major roofing manufacturers clearly state in their warranty documents that coverage excludes damage caused by water ponding for a certain consecutive hours.

Experienced roofing repair experts can quickly diagnose the cause of ponding water on the roof, pinpoint all the problem zones, and repair them immediately.

Need Help Designing Your Flat Roofing System?

Polyglass offers jobsite support and training for contractors installing roofing systems in areas where ponding water is a concern. From full-surface adhered membranes to coatings that can withstand water stagnation, our reps are here to help you build in long-term water control without blowing the budget. Contact us to learn more.

Ever wonder why some roofing jobs sail through inspections while others get red-tagged faster than you can say code violation? Or why can certain contractors bid 15% higher and still win projects while others scrape by on razor-thin margins?

It all comes down to one critical decision that most people completely overlook. The membrane barrier you install beneath the asphalt shingles or tiles can mean the difference between a bulletproof installation and a callback nightmare that might haunt you for years.

With local codes and specs getting stricter every year, you can no longer default to whatever you used last time. Is it Class A fire-rated? Does it meet ASTM D1970 for ice barrier? Can it handle a month of UV before you dry-in the rest? To make sure you meet all the performance standards while remaining efficient, you need the right protective base.

Self-Adhered vs. Synthetic vs. Nailable Felt Roof Underlayment Types

Self-Adhered Membranes (Polystick® Series)

If your project calls for maximum moisture protection, fire resistance, or you are working in areas with ice dam risk or low-slope sections (below 4/12), self-sealing underlayments are a high-performance go-to. The rolls bond directly to the roof deck using the proprietary dual-compound ADESO® technology.

Unlike traditional options, a self-adhesive rubberized asphalt underlayment fully seals to the substrate, so even the areas around fasteners are watertight. With Polystick® MX, Polystick® P HT, Polystick® TU P, Polystick® TU PLUS, and other products in this range, you get complete protection against wind-driven rain, snow melt, and freeze/thaw cycles. You will also appreciate how quick and clean the installation process is. Thanks to the SEALLap® and FASTLap® technology for overlap zones, seams are easier to align, seal, and finish without relying on numerous labor hours.

Features:

• Fully bonded to the deck
• No hot torch, nails, or adhesives required
• Built-in overlap seal zones for faster dry-in
• High durability; can stay exposed for 90 to 180 days
• Can safely handle up to 250°F and 265°F temperature

Mechanically Attached Synthetic Underlayment Sheets (Polyanchor® SU)

If you are looking for a tough, walkable, and lightweight base layer that installs fast and handles the foot traffic of a busy jobsite, Polyglass’s Polyanchor SU is what you want. It’s a lightweight, nail-down synthetic roof underlayment sheet — not a felt — perfect for when you are working on asphalt or synthetic shingle roofs, or natural cedar shakes. It’s also ideal for reroofs in suburban subdivisions, small commercial builds, or budget-conscious new construction.

Polyanchor SU is built with a non-woven fiber top surface and a polymeric-coated underside to grip the roof deck better and make it safer for crews to walk on angled roofs or in wet conditions. And because it comes in large 10-square rolls, you can dry-in quickly without constantly stopping to overlap more sheets. Although it’s not self-sealing around nails like the previous option, it can be paired with Polystick® IR-Xe at the eaves, valleys, and other exposed areas for full ice-and-water protection.

Features:

• Higher tear strength and wind resistance than felt
• Ideal for open exposures or high-elevation projects
• Quick coverage with 10-square lightweight rolls
• 90-day UV exposure rating
• More stable footing during installation

Traditional Felt Rolls (Nailable Asphalt-Saturated Sheets)

Many roofing contractors still use old-school felt (tar paper) mainly because it’s the cheapest material (at least upfront). But price alone should never be a factor. As easy as felt rolls are to install and meet the minimum code requirements, they come with quite a few trade-offs:

• Felt tears easily in windy conditions or when stretched over uneven surfaces.
• It offers minimal resistance to moisture over time, making it vulnerable to leaks if the final roofing layer is not installed quickly.
• It must be fastened manually using roofing nails or cap nails (sometimes staples).
• It gets slippery and unstable fast on steep pitches and wet days.
• It starts to break down within 12-20 years.
• It offers no sealing around fasteners.

Felt underlayments still have a place on low-budget residential projects, temporary builds, or when used beneath secondary layers in systems with multiple moisture barriers. But for long-term value and protection, it is a bare-minimum option; not something you’d choose for demanding environments or high-spec jobs.

8 Questions to Ask When Choosing the Right Roofing Base Sheet for Steep-Slope Projects

How critical is water intrusion protection?

If the area sees a lot of snow, ice dams, or torrential downpours, a fully bonded self-adhered sheet like Polystick® is your best bet. It will create a watertight layer around nails and fasteners, so there is less of a chance of leaks in the valleys, low slopes, and roof-to-wall intersections.

If you don’t need this type of coverage but still need targeted waterproofing, consider going hybrid: use Polystick IR-Xe in critical zones like eaves and transitions, and then cover the field with Polyanchor® SU to speed up dry-in while controlling material costs.

How long does the deck need to be exposed before the final roof system goes on?

Fast-paced commercial sites may get covered quickly, but in many projects, there are delays. In those cases, your base layer becomes your first line of defense. Self-adhered membranes from the Polystick line come with 90–180-day UV exposure ratings. This is stellar if your crews need a wider install window without redoing work. Polyanchor SU also gives you up to 90 days of UV protection. You want long-exposure rated materials if the final roof install might be delayed or if projects pause between phases.

What kind of foot traffic will the roof see during installation?

Is this a quiet reroofing on a house, or are you expecting heavy footfall, multiple trades on the roof, and material staging areas? Synthetic wraps like Polyanchor SU are reinforced to withstand more abuse. The non-woven surface also improves grip. By contrast, standard felt can become slick, soft, or rip under pressure.

What kind of slope are you working with?

Most steep-slope systems are above 4/12, but not all are created equal. On pitches lower than 4/12 (about 2/12 to 3/12), the risk of water pooling or flowing under laps is much higher. For those zones, a fully adhered sheet that self-seals and doesn’t rely on gravity to shed water (like Polystick) is essential. You can go with Polyanchor SU or even felt (if budget is the main concern) for sharper slopes above 4/12, provided you are not in a heavy-weather zone.

How fast do you want the installation to be?

Self-adhered sheets generally install faster than you’d expect; Polystick products in particular come with SEALLap® and FASTLap® to provide quick overlaps without needing torches or adhesives. And because they bond directly, there is less risk of loose edges or wind uplift during staging.

That said, Polyanchor SU is also known for fast, consistent installation across large square footage. You can nail down wide runs quickly if the weather is holding. Felt, while cheap, requires more care with overlaps and is more prone to wrinkles, increasing the risk of do-overs.

What kind of local building codes do you have to adhere to?

Before you even compare price tags or product specs, you need to know what your jurisdiction allows or mandates. In wildfire-prone regions like California or the Southwest, you will need a Class A fire-rated assembly to pass inspection. That not only means the top layer has to resist flames; the entire system, from deck to finish, needs to meet code.

Most Polystick membranes meet ASTM E108 or carry UL Class A ratings when used in approved assemblies. We recommend checking your local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) before finalizing specs. Look for systems rated for both wind uplift and fire resistance, not just standalone membrane data.

What roofing materials are you using on top?

Not all top layers play nice with all base sheets. Clay tiles, concrete, metal panels, wood shakes, and composite or asphalt shingle roofing: each creates different types of pressure, movement, and moisture challenges. Your base layer has to be chemically and thermally compatible with what’s going over it.

Go with a high-temp rated membrane that won’t break down under prolonged heat exposure for metal roofing; Polystick products are good for these projects. For concrete or clay tiles, you want a fully bonded surface (like Polystick TU Plus) that keeps moisture out in low-slope tile sections. Polyanchor SU is a great match for synthetic shingles that are lightweight, tough, and easy to install under manufactured systems.

Do you have mixed slopes or slope breaks?

Some buildings combine 3/12 or 4/12 slopes with steeper angles or tie into flat sections altogether, so not all steep-sloped roofs are steep from end to end. Lower-pitch sections (under 4/12) are more prone to ice damming and wind-driven rain, which makes a watertight, fully adhered membrane a must. For higher slopes over open spans, a synthetic wrap like Polyanchor SU will save time and weight.

You are almost always better off with a dual-system setup for mixed-pitch projects: self-adhered underlayment for low-pitch eaves, then nail-down synthetic up the rest of the slope.

Explore the Complete Range of Polyglass Products

If you have ever had to tear off wrinkled felt after an unexpected storm or replace blown-off synthetic under a partially finished tile underlayment job, you already know the importance of performance over lab specs. What you install beneath the finished roof becomes your first defense against moisture intrusion, weather delays, callbacks, and in some cases, insurance claims.

Polyglass offers a wide range of the best roof underlayment solutions engineered to meet all of your on-the-ground needs. If you have any questions or need help zeroing in on the best type of underlayment for steep or low-slope roofs, get in touch with us.